Monday, October 13, 2014

Alpine Mentors Pacific Northwest - Squamish Session

Alpine Mentors (AM) is a national program organized by Steve and Eva House, and Alpine Mentors Pacific Northwest (AMPNW) is regional version of the national program run by a partnership between Alpine Mentors and the American Alpine Club. The program consists of small groups of young alpinists who train and climb with mentors with the aim of achieving climbs perceived to be beyond their reach. AMPNW will operate on a two-year cycle where mentors help the group organize trips that advance their climbing skills with an eye towards being able to complete technical routes in the high mountains. Along the way AMPNW will help connect the group with different mentors from the areas where we climb. 
AMPNW accepted applications for its first two year cycle in the spring of 2014 and the four participants were chosen by late summer. The four participants are:
  • Ryan Cupp
  • Andy Dahlen
  • Alex Ford
  • Jon Rhoderick
The first session was in Squamish in late September. Mentors who helped included:
  •  Perry Beckham
  • Jim Donini
  • Colin Haley
  • Sarah Hart
  • Bob Rogoz
  • Kate Rutherford
  • Steve Swenson
  • Wayne Wallace
We ended up on smaller crags the days after it rained because they were the quickest to dry out.

Alex Ford on Crime of the Century 5.11c
Perry sent us out to the Sheriff's Badge one day because the wall above overhangs enough that we didn't get wet if it rained.

Jon Roderick on Daily Planet 5.12a
Alex nearly sent it!

Alex Ford on Daily Planet 5.12a

We tried to get out on long multi-pitch routes when the weather allowed.  Cruel Shoes-Grand Wall is a great combo.

Jon Rhoderick - Perry's Layback pitch on the Grand Wall 5.11a
The third pitch of Cruel Shoes just above this traverse was wet.  Jon did a few moves of aid and some other shenanigans to get back on dry rock.

Steve Swenson following Jon Rhoderick and Andy Dahlen on Cruel Shoes
Climbing multi-pitch routes in the Bulletheads.

Wayne Wallace mentoring on Kimmo Gold
Getting on some of the classics to work on efficiency.

Colin Haley mentoring on Rock On
Cragging under the overhangs on a rainy day.

Kate Rutherford at Nightmare Rock
We had a great time climbing together even thought the weather was not that great some of the time. 

Jon Rhoderick, Alex Ford, and Ryan Cupp and Mentor Jim Donini